Using the Real Original

Preparation is the key to a beautiful finish

Take your time preparing the wood.  The time you spend preparing the piece, prior to applying the finish, will surely pay off.  The wood is the finish.  You are "oiling" the wood.  You are not building a finish on the surface.  With each application and subsequent rubbing with steel wool you should begin to see the wood glow.  The process is simple and just a little time consuming but the time spent is time well spent.      

Please read through all the instructions before starting.

Use only the thinnest coats possible – A little Lin-Speed goes a long way

I recently discovered the following tip.  If your piece feels tacky after adequate dry time, try spraying the piece with furniture polish like Pledge and wipe it off with paper towel and the tackiness should go away.  Only do this after the final coat is applied.  If the piece is tacky between coat just take it down to the wood again as described below.  Remember, thin applications will dry and heavy applications will feel sticky even after an adequate dry time.

 Suggested Materials List:

• Real "GB" Lin-Speed Finish & Care Oil
• Separate containers to work from
• Triple zero steel wool (000 fine steel wool)
• Plain or boiled linseed oil (to lubricate the steel wool)
• Odorless mineral spirits (for thinning Lin-Speed & clean up)
• Paper towels
• Clean lint free rags
• 600 Grit sand paper (may or may not be necessary-read on) 
• Metal refuse can (empty coffee can) 
• Paint/varnish stripper (if refinishing)
• Brass brush (used to remove old finish from checkered areas)
• 1” - 2” cheap paint brush (to apply stripper)
• Razor blade (can be used to scrape away old finish)
• Old tooth brush (used to apply Lin-Speed to checkered areas)
• Save some of the sawdust from sanding (can be used with Lin-Speed to fill the wood pores – no other material will match the stock as well as its own dust)

Keep cap closed tightly and STORE JAR CAP SIDE DOWN:

This prevents air from leaking into the jar causing Lin-Speed to thicken.

Discard if contents begin to noticeably thicken:

Lin-Speed cannot be restored with thinner and will not cure properly once it begins to thicken in the jar.  Order a fresh jar at www.lin-speed.com or call 508-566-6869. 

Do not use a sealer

This will prevent the penetration of Lin-Speed into the wood which is key to Lin-Speed protection and finish.

DO NOT HEAT LIN-SPEED

Apply only to wood of low moisture content

Use common sense when going through the process and have fun 

Always work in a well ventilated area

Preparation:

When refinishing:

·          Non-Wood Parts. Remove the non-wood parts from the piece or isolate with tape. Strip off the old finish with your favorite paint/varnish and follow the manufacturer's directions.

·          Checkered Areas.  If checkered areas need refinishing apply the paint/varnish remover and use a brass brush of moderate stiffness to remove the old finish.   Go easy so as not to knock off the points of the checkering.

·          Dents.  If dents in the wood are encountered these can generally be removed by placing a damp cloth over the dent then putting a hot iron on the damp cloth taking care to not burn the wood or yourself.  The steam created should raise the wood and remove the dent.

·          Scratches. Scratches can be sanded but take care to remove only a little wood at a time so you don’t make a noticeable hollow in the wood. Be particularly careful if sanding a portion of the piece where a non-wood part will be reattached for this may ruin the fit.  If there is a deep gouge or other extreme missing material it may be necessary to use wood filler.  The novice may want to visit a local gun smith for this repair.

·          Grain Raising. You will need to do no “grain-raising” or “de-whiskering” when using Lin-Speed.  The first application of Lin-Speed oil will raise the fibers of the wood and freeze them when the Lin-Speed hardens.  Then, when you use the steel wool to take down the finish between coats, the raised fibers will be reduced.

·          Stain. Apply any color stain to the piece desired and let it dry according to manufacturer. The stain can contain no sealer or polyurethane.

·          Wood Prep. When finishing a new stock be sure that all sanding and other means of preparation have been made to your liking.  Again, take your time and make the wood like glass before applying Lin-Speed. 

·          Lin-Speed Penetration. There should be no other finish on the piece that may prevent the penetration of Lin-Speed into the wood.  Lin-Speed will generally work fine when finishing over other oil type finishes.  Remember, Lin-Speed is meant to penetrate and fill the pores of the wood.  It works within the wood with very little on the surface. 

Applying the Lin-Speed Finish: 

·          Take your time and read the following closely.

·          Lin-Speed gives great protection.  A completed Lin-Speed oil finish will protect against damage by all gun care products known to the manufacturer, as well as by alcohol, water and the extremes of climate heat and cold.

·          Simple overview.  Apply thin coats of Lin-Speed until the pores are filled making sure to reduce each application down to the wood between applications, then apply two final coats.  The following describes in greater detail the methods necessary to achieve a beautiful finish.

·          Please keep in mind, applying too much Lin-Speed will not help to build the finish and will impede the dry time. 

·          Warm, dry, moving air are the best conditions under which Lin-Speed will harden.

• Upon completion of an application of Lin-Speed, dispose of soiled materials as described above in a covered metal container and wash your hands thoroughly with warm water and soap.

·          Utilize a separate container.  We suggest pouring a little Lin-Speed at a time as needed into a second container and resealing your original jar.  Your Lin-Speed will be less likely to thicken in the original jar and this will prevent debris from getting into the fresh jar.  Do not return the used oil back into the fresh jar.

·          Inlet and fitted surfaces. Apply a modest amount of Lin-Speed to the inlets and fitted surfaces.  Even though these areas will be covered upon reassembly of the piece, a barrier of Lin-Speed in these areas will protect the wood from moisture and lubricant oils.  Any excess Lin-Speed applied in these areas should be dabbed or wiped away with a clean rag or used on the exposed surfaces.  Only one, thin application of Lin-Speed is necessary in these areas.  Too much Lin-Speed may interfere with the fit of the pieces to be reattached so it is best to keep it to one coat here.

·          General application.  Simply dip the tip of your index finger into the Lin-Speed and smear it over the wood.  Rub the Lin-Speed around the piece until it feels as though the product has gone into the wood.  Repeat this process until the piece is oiled all over with virtually none on the surface.  The wood will glow and the grain comes alive even though there is virtually no Lin-Speed on the surface.  Remember you are oiling the wood and not putting a finish "on" the wood.  The wood and the Lin-Speed become one.  That is why preparing the wood and using steel wool between applicaions is critical to a beautiful finish. 

·          Checkered areas.  If your piece has checkered areas, apply Lin-Speed to these areas first.  Dip an old tooth brush or similar stiff bristled brush into the Lin-Speed (again, put a little Lin-Speed in a separate container) and push the product throughout the checkering.  Using a semi stiff bristled brush will help prevent the checkering from getting clogged with finish.  Again, a little Lin-Speed goes a long way.  The excess Lin-Speed from the checkered area can simply be rubbed into the smooth areas around the checkering.

·          Filling larger wood pores. Wood grains differ form species to species.  Some wood grain is open, requiring filling to make a nice smooth surface, and some wood is tighter grained, requiring little or no filling.  Lin-Speed is formulated to fill pores, but some pieces may need filling using Lin-Speed and the dust from the piece.  Look at the piece closely.  If you encounter wood grain that is noticeably open (large pores), use the sanding dust combined with the Lin-Speed to fill the pores of the grain during the first coat.  We have also learned that some folks prefer to apply a coat of Lin-Speed then sand the piece with 600 grit sand paper while the product is still wet upon the piece.  This creates a paste of saw dust and Lin-Speed.  Go over the whole piece (except for checkered areas) using this method, and then let the paste dry on the piece over night.  This will not be a thick paste.  The piece will appear cloudy in appearance over all.  After it has dried over night, (it still may feel a bit tacky but that is ok) take the paste down with triple zero steel wool lubricated with regular boiled linseed oil all the way down to the wood, and then wipe the piece off with paper towel.  This method, if used, should be done on the first coat.  No material used to fill the pores will match the wood better than itself.

·          Between coats.  Lin-Speed, even though technically dry, may feel a bit tacky.  That is normal.  You will now take down the previously applied coat of Lin-Speed down to the wood by rubbing the piece with triple zero steel wool lubricated with ordinary linseed oil.  Tear off about a 1 inch strip from the pad of triple zero steel wool and wet it with the regular linseed oil.  Squeeze the pad to distribute oil evenly through the pad.  This small oiled pad will then be used to rub the piece in a circular motion (like waxing a car) to grind the finish all the way down to bare wood.  Don't be afraid to put some pressure on the piece when rubbing.  This method works like wet sanding.  Triple zero steel wool dulls relatively quickly, so flip it often and change pads frequently.  Wipe the piece off with paper towel from time to time and when you are convinced the finish is down to the wood give the piece a final wipe with paper towel.  You are now ready for another application.

·          Inspect the piece.  When the finish has been reduced all the way to the wood and the ordinary linseed oil and steel wool debris has been removed with paper towel, inspect the piece to see if the pores are filled level and even with the rest of the surface.  If there are bright spots, this means the pores are only partially filled.  The brightness is Lin-Speed at a lower level, untouched by the steel wool.  This means some filling is present but that at least an additional application of Lin-Speed is necessary.  Repeat until the pores are filled.

·          The Final Finish.  The final finish should not be built up and away from the surface of the wood.  It should be as thin as possible upon it resembling the patina of early furniture.   The requirement for success in keeping the final finish a minimum thickness is of having the preceding sealing and filling complete and fully reduced to the wood.  The piece at this point should be clean and free of any dust or debris.  The final coat of Lin-Speed can be used full strength or thinned with odorless mineral spirits – two parts thinner to three parts Lin-Speed.  We have found that thinned Lin-Speed flows more easily than full strength but it is up to personal preference.  Start with the checkered areas and spread the excess around the area.  Dip the tip of your finger in the Lin-Speed and spread it around the piece.  After the full application is done you may wish to make a smoothing swipe with the palm or heel of the hand.  Lin-Speed will self level so do not worry about streaks so long as it is in the oil and not furrows in the wood.  If you have furrows you have more pore filling to do before the final application.

·          The Seasoned Finish.  It is typical that the new finish have, right at first, a very slightly tacky feel even though it is technically dry.  I have found recently that the tacky feel can be removed by spraying the piece with Pledge furniture polish.  Use it just like you would on a piece of furniture.  It takes the tackiness out and then later, after a week to ten days, a seasoned hardness will become apparent.  Remember, you will have the rest of your life to enjoy the piece so please be patient for a few days.  If the piece needs to be shipped before the piece has seasoned, wrap the piece in wax paper then in regular paper but the best advice to your client is to just be patient.  It is not advised to take an unseasoned piece into the field as it will easily scratch.  Even so, a Lin-Speed finish is so easy to touch up it will be of little matter overall.

·          Touch Up.  Unlike almost any other finish, the oil finish is receptive to selective repair or complete refreshment after hard use or long aging.  Just a drop or two of Lin-Speed oil, placed, spread and smoothed out will return the finish to its original beauty.  Be sure the wood is free of oils or grease before applying any Lin-Speed.  Try wiping the piece down with naphtha before the touch up to be sure the piece is grease free.

Please do not hesitate to call (508-566-6869) or e-mail (linspeedoil@yahoo.com) if you have any questions about using Lin-Speed, the finest oil finish available.  Thanks so much for your business.  We sincerely appreciate our customers.

With warmest regards,

Bill & Ingrid

The Lin-Speed Team