When refinishing:

Lin-Speed Penetration — There should be no other finish on the piece that may prevent the penetration of Lin-Speed into the wood. Lin-Speed will generally work fine when finishing over other oil type finishes.
Remember, Lin-Speed is meant to penetrate and fill the pores of the wood. It works within the wood with very little on the surface.

Non-Wood Parts — Remove the non-wood parts from the piece or isolate with tape. Strip off the old finish with your favorite paint/varnish remover and follow the manufacturer’s directions.

Wood Prep — Take your time with each sand paper grit. The more uniform the scratch pattern the better your finish will look.
Remember that Lin-Speed is not a varnish or polyurethane and is not meant to hide the wood with a surface coat but is truly and in the wood finish.

Scratches — Scratches can be sanded but take care to remove only a little wood at a time so you don’t make a noticeable hollow in the wood. Be particularly careful if sanding a portion of the piece where a non-wood part will be reattached for this may ruin the fit. If there is a deep gouge or other extreme missing material it may be necessary to use wood filler. The novice may want to visit a local gun smith for this repair.

Stain — Apply any color stain to the piece desired and let it dry according to manufacturer. THE STAIN CAN CONTAIN N SEALER OR POLYURETHANE.

Checkered Areas — If checkered areas on gun stocks need refinishing, apply the paint/varnish remover and use a brass brush of moderate stiffness to remove the old finish. Go easy, so as not to knock off the points of the checkering.


Always work in a well ventilated area.
Rags, Paper Towels, Steel Wool Pads soaked in Linseed Oil can self ignite. Put all these work materials and anything else that you have used in the process that may ignite (Lin-Speed, Linseed Oil, Mineral Spirits, Naphtha and lighter fluid) in a metal can. Douse the contents of the can with soap & water and dispose of it in an environmentally friendly way.